Ntombi Khambule on Building the African Fashion Guild: "No One Is Coming to Save Us But Ourselves"
NTOMBI KHAMBULE
“My work is rooted in the belief that thriving creative industries are never built in isolation. They are built through collaboration, shared knowledge, and strong networks. I see my role as a convener, bringing together people, ideas, and resources so that together we can build the kind of ecosystem that will allow African fashion to flourish for generations to come.”
Ntombi Khambule spent six years as Chief of Operations at Thebe Magugu, one of Africa's most globally recognised fashion houses, before she concluded that the knowledge she had gained was never hers to keep alone. Today, she is the founder and chairperson of the African Fashion Guild, an initiative she describes as a structure designed to bring together designers, operators, manufacturers, retailers, and other ecosystem actors around the shared ambition of building an industry that can sustain itself. This portrait traces how a career spent inside a leading brand led Ntombi to build something for the industry at large, and why she believes the next phase of African fashion depends not on creative talent alone, but on the operational infrastructure that supports it.
HER CRAFT
Operations, conviction, and what keeps calling her back
Could you tell us what you do and why it matters to you?
Over the past six years as Chief of Operations at Thebe Magugu, alongside my studies and work experience in New York and Italy, I developed a deep interest in building operational systems that support creative talent.
Through my work at one of Africa's leading global fashion brands, and from listening closely to the experiences of other designers, I have seen firsthand what can go wrong when creativity is not supported by strong business and operational structures. These experiences shaped my conviction that creative excellence must be matched with sustainable systems in order for designers to truly thrive.
I have come to understand that the knowledge and perspective I have gained are not mine to keep alone, but are meant to be in service of others. I care deeply about designers and the long-term health of the fashion industry, and I am committed to helping creative talent build businesses that are resilient, structured, and globally competitive.
What led you to start the African Fashion Guild?
This commitment led me to establish the African Fashion Guild. Through this work, I aim to support designers not only individually, but collectively, by helping cultivate the ecosystem that our industry needs to grow sustainably.
My work is rooted in the belief that thriving creative industries are never built in isolation. They are built through collaboration, shared knowledge, and strong networks. I see my role as a convener, bringing together people, ideas, and resources so that together we can build the kind of ecosystem that will allow African fashion to flourish for generations to come.
I have a clear vision of what I would like this industry to become, and I believe that if that vision is ever to materialise, it is my responsibility to help make it happen. In many ways, the work also feels like a calling. I have tried at times not to follow through with it, but each time I step away I somehow find myself returning to the African Fashion Guild. That return continues to reaffirm my belief that this work is part of the role I am meant to play.
What message do you want to convey through your work, and what does it mean to you?
The responsibility of building this industry and its ecosystem belongs to all of us. No one is coming to save us but ourselves. This work means a lot to me because our ability to thrive depends on our willingness to show up for one another and to build the structures that will sustain us. When we take that responsibility seriously, we begin to create the conditions where African designers are able to succeed, endure, and grow. Over time, this will reduce the failure rate that has defined so many creative journeys across the continent, which is ultimately the change I am working toward.
Ntombi Khambule, founder of African Fashion Guild
How has the African Fashion Guild evolved since you started it?
When I first started building the African Fashion Guild, I believed that its primary focus would be designers. However, I quickly realised that while designers are important actors within the ecosystem, they are not the only ones. A healthy and sustainable fashion industry also depends on manufacturers, retailers, stylists, and even consumers. Recognising this shifted my perspective and led me to begin mapping out the broader ecosystem and the different roles these actors play, as well as how they too could benefit from the Guild's work, even if designers remain the immediate priority.
One of the challenges has been maintaining the momentum we experienced at launch. At the time, the vision was clear but many of the structural elements had not yet been fully developed. Since then, I have spent time thinking deeply about what those elements should be and how they fit together. The vision is now much more defined.
However, because I also had a full-time role, it has become clear that I cannot execute the next phase of this work alone. Initially, I believed I could manage the Guild alongside my other responsibilities, but the scale of what needs to be built requires more time and capacity than I can realistically sustain on my own. As a result, the momentum has slowed.
What has been encouraging, though, is the response from the community. The audience has been incredibly supportive, and many people have reached out to ask how they can contribute or become involved. That level of interest continues to reaffirm that there is a real appetite for what the African Fashion Guild is trying to build.
What are you focusing on at the moment?
I am currently focused on providing immediate value to African Fashion Guild members through educational content, practical tools, and accessible resources that support their growth and development. Members will have exclusive access to educational content, giving them practical knowledge they can use right away to strengthen and grow their businesses.
African Fashion Guild’s launch event in Johannesburg. From left to right: 1. Guests listening at the event, 2.Ntombi Khambule with her board members Carlyn Fritelli Davies (left) and designer Thebe Magugu (right), 3. Designer Mzukisi Mbane from Imprint ZA and Muna technology company co-founder Tshepo Bhengu, 4. Ntombi Khambule with guests
HER LESSONS
Learning to build without a blueprint
What major hurdles have you had to overcome in your work?
I am still in the early stages of building the African Fashion Guild, and a key part of my work has been educating people about what the Guild is and what it is not. It is not a traditional fashion council, nor does it seek to replace existing councils. Rather, it serves as a convener, bringing together designers and other ecosystem actors to collaborate, share knowledge, and build structures that support the industry as a whole.
One of the challenges has been helping people fully understand this distinction. I recognise that this will take time, particularly given that some designers have had negative experiences with fashion councils in the past. I am aware that the industry may not be ready to fully engage with us yet, and that there is still a long road ahead.
A recent lesson that changed the way you operate?
As I continue to grow, build, and refine my work, I have learnt that the process will not be linear, nor will it necessarily resemble the paths of others. I have also begun incorporating systems thinking into my approach, which allows me to better understand the connections within the ecosystem and design solutions that benefit the industry as a whole.
A habit you are trying to build?
I am learning to prioritise my own wellbeing and desires, approaching my work in a way that sustains my energy and effectiveness rather than drains it.
HER ENERGY
Her vision, the women who came before her and her support system
African Fashion Guild’s founder, Ntombi Khambule
What do you enjoy the most in your work?
Solving problems and actively refining my vision.
What keeps you going?
I care deeply about the work I am doing.
How do you stay inspired?
There are so many women doing incredible work, and I am always in awe of what they have achieved and how they have done it. I am naturally ambitious and aspire for more, not only because of my own goals but also because I carry financial responsibility for my family. I want to provide them with certain opportunities and experiences, and it is deeply important to me that they have them.
Where do you find sanctuary in challenging times?
I am fortunate to have a very supportive partner who consistently goes the extra mile to create comfort and stability for me. I also have wonderful friends who rally around me, offering encouragement and tangible solutions when needed. Alongside this support, I intentionally carve out periods of solitude, which help me think things through, reflect, and maintain my sense of balance.
A motto you live by?
"Is this a hill I am willing to die on?"
An affirmation that keeps you going?
Life doesn't happen to me, it happens for me.
HER COMMUNITY
Shared experience is the foundation of everything
“Community reminds us that our life experiences are meant to be shared. It nurtures us, while at the same time creating the space for us to grow and thrive. Community means support, trust, responsibility, and shared experience. It has helped me refine my thinking by challenging my beliefs, supported me through moments of distress, and continually reminded me of the importance of being of service to others.”
African Fashion Guild’s mission and approach
HER PERSPECTIVE
The operator gap and what happens when structure meets creativity
Any specific industry topics you have been thinking about?
The idea that building a sustainable business looks different for everyone, depending on where they are in their journey, has been on my mind. For many designers, operational systems are rarely a priority. More often than not, they only become a focus in moments of distress, when the demands of running a business begin to overwhelm the creative practice.
I have been thinking more about how designers might benefit from partnering with operators. Operators bring a fundamentally different approach to business, one rooted in structure, systems, and sustainability. When that mindset is paired with a designer's creative vision, the potential for building enduring businesses becomes limitless.
The real question then becomes: how do we begin to identify these operators and equip them with the tools needed to work effectively within creative environments? How do we train them to become truly 'designer-ready', able to support and scale creative talent without compromising the integrity of the work?
What challenges and opportunities do you see in the global African fashion ecosystem?
The challenge lies in building strong networks amongst ourselves that can support the development of an efficient and sustainable ecosystem. The opportunity, however, is significant. There is a growing global demand and appreciation for African creative output, and it is clear that the next frontier of economic and cultural growth will come from the cultural industries. With Africa's large and youthful population, the potential for innovation, influence, and long-term impact is immense.
What avenues could better bridge independent designers and global audiences?
I think it is about being more intentional about cross-border collaboration with institutions, associations, and peers working across the cultural industries. Strengthening these relationships can help us share resources, knowledge, and opportunities.
African Fashion Guild’s practitioners ecosytem, except for Logistics & Transportations which are however included in their programme
African Fashion Guild (AFG) board member Gavin Rajah speaking at the AFG launch event in Cape Town
ON HER RADAR
Watching, discovering, following closely
What are you curious about?
I am always curious to understand how other cultural leaders navigate their respective industries, the challenges they encounter, and the paths they take to move through them and emerge on the other side.
What has got you excited recently?
The launch of the Cape Town Magugu House store, for obvious reasons. I am also always excited to see what Sealand is doing, and I have been loving Me&B's latest release of dresses.
“I have been thinking more about how designers might benefit from partnering with operators. Operators bring a fundamentally different approach to business, one rooted in structure, systems, and sustainability. When that mindset is paired with a designer’s creative vision, the potential for building enduring businesses becomes limitless. ”
HER STYLE
Comfort and Hertunba as a new reference point
Ntombi Khambule fronting Magugu House in Johannesburg
Your wardrobe essentials?
A dress, comfy sneakers, a tote bag, a pendant, and three pairs of earrings.
Where do you discover African and diaspora brands?
Instagram, primarily. I follow a few fashion councils, which is how I discover designers and commentators.
Some of your favourite African and diaspora brands?
ME&B: fun and quirky, there is always something interesting happening on their social feeds.
Sealand reminds me of Patagonia in the way they have built a brand with a clear ethos and purpose.
Christie Brown, for their silhouettes and the way they use cut-outs.
And Hertunba, which I recently discovered and would quite honestly take everything from. As I continue to refine my style, they are becoming a strong reference point for me.
Any specific pieces you have your eye on?
Anything from Hertunba or Rosey and Vittori.
THE EDIT, INSPIRED BY HER
HERTUNBA Ure Woven Skirt in Gold
ROSEY AND VITTORI Chocolate Pinstripe Asymetrical Waistcoat
CHRISTIE BROWN Kathy Blue Embroidered Garter Belt
HERTUNBA Nina Top & Nina Skirt Set
ME&B The Eye Candy Feather Dress
THEBE MAGUGU Handkerchief Knitted Sisterhood Dress
Ntombi Khambule's portrait is ultimately an argument about collective responsibility arrived at through the accumulated weight of years spent watching creative talent falter in the absence of structures that could hold it. The African Fashion Guild is, in many ways, the industry's missing infrastructure made visible: a slow, deliberate attempt to build what no single designer, and no single market, can build alone.
Follow Ntombi at @n_khambule and the African Fashion Guild at @africanfashionguild on Instagram, and connect with her on LinkedIn.
Explore the previous portrait with fashion consultant and Clearly Invincible founder, Sessi K and subscribe to the NDAANE newsletter to stay across every conversation in the series.