Talking Creativity, Courage And Identity With Malaika Nabillah, Co-founder Of Togo Yeye
Roberta represented by Tendance Modeling Agency wears a creation by Agnes K´do
Backdrop painted by Togolese artist Kossi
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
When it comes to fashion in West Africa, the countries you hear about the most globally are usually Nigeria, Ghana, Côte d’Ivoire and Senegal. Yet right next to Ghana, there is Togo. Driven by major local events like Lomé Fashion Week founded by Fall Touré, one of the country’s greatest designers and the International Festival of Fashion in Togo “FIMO 228” founded by ex-model, now model agency director and fashion designer Jacques Logoh, the country is also positioning itself as a reference for fashion in the region. Alongside these national giants, a new movement reflective of the next generation of African creatives eager to write a new global and diversified narrative of their continent has come to light.
Co-led by London-based Togolese-German photographer and creative Delali Ayivi and her friend Malaika Nabillah, a Togolese medical student and creative based in Lomé, Togo Yeye is an ongoing project aiming at championing Togolese creativity globally.
Togo Yeye translates to ‘a new Togo’ in Ewe and is dedicated to tomorrow’s generation of artists and thinkers, today.” say Delali and Malaika. “Its main objective is to document and celebrate those who push creative boundaries, especially in Lomé’s fashion industry. We also hope that through collaboration we can strengthen our community and bridge the gap between the Togolese diaspora and people at home. For that reason, our work often addresses the cultural dynamics between the many facets of Togolese identity.”
In this conversation with Malaika Nabillah, we discussed the project’s inception, its local perception in Togo and what makes Togo Yeye. Hint: courage, identity and creativity.
Sam represented by Tendance Modeling Agency wears trousers from Hedzranawoe
Hair and Make-up by Laetitia Adji (@titi_fx_makeup @___dewaa_)
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
Let’s learn more about you first. You’ve been described as an “all- round creative” in various publications. What does your work consist of?
I’m involved in fashion today but I don’t come from a fashion background originally. I’m a medical student. Fashion is more of a passion for me. I really started to explore it three years ago with a small earring line I made of wax fabric. I started it out of passion but I also needed to provide for myself. I expanded the brand to clothing, all made of wax fabric too. Then, at some point I couldn’t see myself in that brand anymore. It felt too commonplace. As I decided to pause it, I got the idea to start my own local textile line, having in mind that it would help relaunching the clothing brand. I chose batik and out of that came Blacktik.
Malaika Nabillah, Togo Yeye Co-founder
Delali Ayivi, Togo Yeye Co-founder
What about your beautiful friendship with Delali? Was fashion a passion you have both always shared?
Our friendship actually started out around fashion. I met my friend Delali on that creative journey building my small brand in 2018. She was more into fashion than I was. She was a photographer and a fashion and creative direction student at the time. She had come across my creations on Instagram and really liked them. Since she was very interested in fashion trends in Togo, she contacted me to learn more. We met and everything started from there. The next year we worked together at Lomé Fashion Week. I had a contract to work for the event and I took her with me.
Victoria wears a top and skirt made from re-purposed plastic bottles made by FAALT Student Carole Ayoko Kokodoko
Earrings by Togolese designer: Meli Bodombossou
Victoria is represented by Tendance Modeling Agency
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
How did you guys come up with the Togo Yeye project?
It’s often said that creativity is contagious and it requires courage. Togo Yeye is a compelling example of that. This project was born out of our conversations around observations we had made of our country. What really clicked with Delali was our shared opinion about the lack of a strong community to support and stimulate the diverse range of creatives in Togo.
More often than not, our young talents focus on reproducing Western styles. They all want to be the next Louis Vuitton or Chanel. A lot of them mimic what they see abroad. And you end up seeing a lot of brands which look the same. There is a cultural identity gap, we are a bit lost. We can’t seem to find what makes us unique. Delali and I are very patriotic, with a Pan-African vision. We think that Africa will only rise if our creations reflect our own diverse identities.
Victor Snow styled by himself
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
From your perspective as a creative on the continent, how are the arts and fashion perceived in Togo? Can creatives here see themselves make a living out of their arts despite the lack of support for the industry?
As a matter of fact, there are not that many creatives here in Togo. As there is no strong supportive community for creatives at the moment, most people won’t consider the creative industry as a way to earn a living. We are trying to build that community to give a voice to the many and varied Togolese creatives, starting with Togo Yeye. Togo Yeye means New Togo – as in the new image of Togo we want to showcase. We try to share the most original works we receive on our Instagram account at the moment but we aspire to do more.
Roberta wears a dress made from cards by Sarah Sodji
Roberta is represented by Tendance Modeling Agency
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
How was your project perceived by the creatives you contacted? You’ve worked with fashion schools too. How did they see this pioneering project?
Our project is still not fully understood here in Togo. For instance, as part of the project, we were interested in the creative outfit that fashion students have to present for their graduation. We approached schools with that idea, explaining that we would use them to show the world how creative people were in Togo. Much to our surprise, the majority of them did not really grasp on the concept. They didn’t understand how what they perceived as “useless” outfits could help. After the graduation show, these outfits are usually never to be used again. We eventually got permission to use the ones of the two major fashion schools here in Togo: EAMOD Ayanick and FAALT schools. They agreed even if they didn’t fully understand our project.
But from the moment they saw the photos we took of these outfits on models, they realised the potential these so-called overlooked pieces had, from cinema to celebrity styling. From then on, some creatives got interested in our project. A lot of people were sending requests, calling us. A lot of them wanted to pose for us. We gained over 700 followers on Instagram in a month.
Alice wears a paper creation by Diane Patience Echitey, a recent Eamod Ayanick Fashion Academy graduate
Shoes : Hedzranawoe
Backdrop by Togolese artist Kossi
Alice is represented by Tendance Modeling Agency
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
Did you also receive a lot of requests from creatives in the diaspora?
The majority of the requests came from Togolese on the continent, especially because we specifically reached out to young designers and fashion students here. Our main focus is fashion in Togo. We really want to show that there are talents here. We want to instill pride in our people and wipe out the idea inherited from our colonised past that refinement only comes from the West. Ultimately, we want them to dare to be different.
Can we consider Togo Yeye as an identity wake-up call?
Indeed! We try to set an example with Togo Yeye. On my side, I try to do things differently with my batik line to stand out from the ones you usually find on the market. I challenge myself to try new things, to showcase my own creativity so it gives courage and hope to others to do so, too.
Florence wears a bow and dress made from hand written letters by Light Fakambi
Shoes, bra and gloves : Hedzranawoe
Florence is represented by Tendance Modeling Agency
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
Where does the project stand at the moment?
We’re currently looking for funding through sponsors and producing art prints with the pictures we took so far. We are working towards the production of a print publication to be distributed in Togo first, then on the continent and the diaspora. Accessibility will be key for us here. The book will be published not only in French and English but also in our widely spoken local language Ewe. We want as many people as possible to take the courage to explore their creativity.
The print publication , potential sponsors and print sales will also be a way to pay all of the creatives we worked with, which is key for us. The main goal is to enable them to make a living from their arts. Our vision for this project is so big that it sometimes feels utopian.*laughs* But we’re starting to see a few results of our work. There are a few publications who are getting interested.
Asap le Togoricain styled by himself
Belts from Hedzranawoe
Production and Casting by Malaika Nabillah
Photographed by Delali Ayivi for Togo Yeye
Last but not least, what is your motto to keep going?
Be different! Do things differently, think differently. I always repeat it to myself with the quote “Creativity takes courage”. This is the exact same message we want to share with Togo Yeye. Being creative is being bold! It’s trying new things. We want our Togolese youth to look in the depths of themselves to explore and express their creativity. Our Togolese and wider African youth need that courage to build the new proud Africa of our dreams.