Rich Mnisi’s SS21 Collection : Hiya Kaya

If you were lucky enough to get through 2020, you will remember it as an awakening storm. From rethinking our habits and staying at home to adopting face masks as a second skin. From virtual gatherings to reaching peak online shopping; we all had to learn how to live together differently. Not to mention the intensified global awareness of society's misgivings: the racial issues, our environmental footprint, and people’s revolts across Africa to name a few. 2020 was obviously a turning point on every level.
Within the fashion sphere, the industry quickly had to adapt and find ways to stay relevant in uncertain times. Switching production lines to mask or PPE production, moving retail online, hosting live events and virtual presentations, raising voice against injustice, the industry showed strength through flexibility, empathy and creativity.

However disruptive the year was, the most successful brands were the ones who found their way through the global turbulence and left their mark on 2020. Here are our ‘wow’ moments:

1. IMANE AYISSI OFFICIALLY JOINED PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK (January)

2020 took off at lightning speed with Imane Ayissi entering the official Paris Haute Couture calendar, being the first ever African designer to join the globally acclaimed shows. Combined with the numerous coverage in top publications like Vogue, it did wonders for widening Ayissi’s visibility. And it was a long-awaited recognition of his meticulous 20-year long career showcasing the richness of African textiles in the global fashion scene. Ghanaian kente fabric, woven raffia fabric, Senegalese manjak fabric and natural tie-dyed fabric are his signatures.

Imane Ayissi’s SS20 Couture Collection: Akouma

2. KENNETH IZE’S DEBUT AT PARIS FASHION WEEK (February)

Nigerian-Austrian designer Kenneth Ize made a sensational debut at Paris Fashion Week in February counting global icons such as Naomi Campbell (one of his most vocal supporters), Liya Kebede and Adwoa Aboah to name a few. Showing in the global fashion capital came as a significant step in his brand’s journey, just one year after his LVMH prize’s finalist nomination in 2019 alongside South African brand Thebe Magugu. Kenneth Ize’s AW 2020 collection, inspired by his mother’s Sunday Bests, shone the spotlight on aso oke, a traditional Nigerian woven textile at the core of the brand’s aesthetic.

Model Adwoa Aboah for Kenneth Ize’s SS20 Show In Paris Last Year

3. HANIFAH 3D FASHION SHOW (May)

The world was still trying to figure out how to cope with living with a pandemic when Anifa Mvuemba shook the fashion sphere with a groundbreaking 3D fashion show. Hanifa’s Pink Label Congo collection - a tribute to the designer’s roots - was streamed over an Instagram live, gathering hundreds of guests. The airy model’s swaying walk started after a short educational documentary about the human damages of coltan mining in Congo. Anifa Mvuemba’s intentional show touched her community - through social media, by elevating the continent’s voice globally and through her inclusive designs and virtual casting. Her collection sold out a week later.

Iconic Kinshasa Backless Mini Dress from Hanifah’s Pink Label Congo Collection

4. THE “IN CONVERSATION WITH” SERIES OF LAGOS FASHION WEEK (May)

Last year’s first lockdown saw the rise of live conversations over social media and dedicated platforms where many players across different industries hosted a series of discussions to stay connected with their community. From May to September, Lagos Fashion Week’s insightful series was not only an update on how the industry was holding strong during these tough times, but was also a deep dive into major topics around building the future of fashion in Africa. Catch up on Youtube.

Lagos Fashion Week’s “In Conversation With” Series : The Digitization Of Everything

5. TONGORO’S MADE IN AFRICA DOCUMENTARY ON AFRICA DAY (May)

After the year Sarah Diouf’s had, picking one single Tongoro moment was not an easy job. It started with the “Made in Africa” documentary celebrating the 4th anniversary of the brand on Africa Day. Then followed the brand’s collaboration with Ghana-based agency Balm Labs to introduce their digital magazine Made and a 3D viewing of the Anniversary collection. And then they broke the internet with custom-made looks for Beyonce’s Black is King. The fashion entrepreneur punctuated 2020 with spectacular releases on social media and thoughtful collaborative projects. Tongoroland’s dreamy livestreamed show and the brand’s first strategic deals with e-tailers - exclusive capsule collections for both Printemps Haussman and Industrie Africa - could be added to the moments’ list too. Maybe 2021 will be the year of a Tongoro x Off White or Tongoro x Nike collaboration.

“Made In Africa” Documentary By Sarah Diouf

6. LAUNCH OF INDUSTRIE AFRICA E-COMMERCE (July)

2020 saw the rise of e-commerce platforms in times when brick-and-mortar stores were helpless. An online platform from its inception, Industrie Africa was set to relaunch as an e-retailer regardless. The continent then saw the birth of its first locally based global shopping platform dedicated to emerging and high-end African designer brands. Initially launched to help connect brands to international buyers, retailers and press, the “African fashion Wikipedia” has evolved to the strong editorial shopping destination it is today. As founder Nisha Kanabar explained during a live conversation with Business Of Fashion about the e-commerce opportunity in Africa, she realised along the way that simply being an informative platform wasn’t enough to push the industry forward.

Indusrie Africa E-Commerce Launch’s Editorial : Diarrablu dresses, Awa Meité Kimono, Sidai Designs and Ami Doshi Shah Jewellery

7. BEYONCE’S BLACK IS KING AND BLACK PARADE Beyonce (August)

Beyonce granted us a grand fashion moment with the release of her “Black is King” film. As well as offering the world a visual fashion feast - showcasing emerging and established fashion houses from all over the world - the visual project came along with a generous selection of Black-owned brands featured on Beyonce’s website. The Black Parade selection included an African-owned brands focus, giving them much-needed visibility on the global stage. Over 70 African-owned brands picked from across the continent and beyond shared visuals of the star rocking their designs over social media.

8. RICH MNISI AND EMMY KASBIT WINNERS OF SCOUTING FOR AFRICA 2020 (September)

South African brand Rich Mnisi and Nigerian brand Emmy Kasbit were the joint winners of the collaborative initiative of Vogue Talents - a Vogue Italia project - and African Fashion Foundation: Scouting for Africa 2020. The two institutions teamed up on this new project to provide support to emerging designers, and the opportunity to showcase their latest collection during Milan Fashion Week in September through video presentations.

Emmy Kasbit SS21 Presentation For Milan Fashion Week

9. PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN THE FOLKLORE AND FARFETCH (November)

As mentioned before, e-commerce shows critical relevance both now and in the future. Added to the ever-growing global interest for the continent's creative scene, pivotal partnerships such as Farfetch and the Folklore are to be expected more and more. Anticipating the Folklore’s growth in sales and audience - and in turn an awareness around African fashion designers - doesn’t seem that far off considering Farfetch’s presence in the luxury online shopping space - especially after an earlier major deal with Alibaba and the Richemont group.

The Folklore x Farfetch Partnership’s Editorial: Lisa Folawiyo dress, Edas bag

Getting 2021 Ready With 9 ‘Wow’ Moments That Made 2020