Benin Series: Maison Sitou On Hard Work and Lifting Up The Community

Influencer @laperleocre wearing the MAISON SITOU Osiri Suit, shot by Aïsha Fadonougbo

If Benin is well known for its crop of talented contemporary artists such as Romuald Hazoumè or Moufouli Bello, then just wait for its roster of young fashion designers who are carving out a path for themselves on the global stage, starting in their own country. 

While Maureen Ayité has made a name for herself with her international ready-to-wear brand Nanawax, designers and fashion entrepreneurs from the diaspora like Daniel Tohou of Nefer Couture or Rodrigue Vodounou of Goya Paris want to be more intentional with their brands—relocating to their home countries or expanding on the continent.

In the same breath, a brand new wave of eclectic talents is committed to driving change in their very own language.

Peter Toni-Basengula’s call for sustainable practices through his already hyped label FARE—standing for Fashion Renewal—resonates with the slow philosophy of multidimensional brand Esthet Studio whose ethos is grounded in togetherness and self expression. Chanelling self-awareness and creative freedom, MonsieurEstNoir’s celebration of his people echoes MAISON SITOU dedication to shine a light on their community and culture. And the list goes on, Terre d’Ombre, Kozo, Awam are pretty much all names to be found at Cotonou’s finest curated concept store Vestiaire Original. 

As we went on a fashion tour last year in Cotonou, we made sure not to miss this top-notch destination for local cutting-edge fashion where founder Morayo Osse shared her precious insights about the local fashion scene.

We caught up with a few of the designers we met there both online and offline to learn more about their work and journey in building their brands. We’ll be sharing our conversations through our Benin Series starting here with Samir De Dravo, founder and creative director of MAISON SITOU, a contemporary clothes and accessories brand, handcrafted in Benin.

What ignited your passion for fashion? Have you always known that you would make a career in fashion?

My passion for fashion came from my parents. My dad is a fashion lover. He used to sell African luxury fabrics, shoes and accessories in his shop. My mum is from the Nana Benz lineage in Togo. Although they guided my first steps in fashion, they never really planned or wished for this life for me. At best, they expected it to become a hobby for me. And so did I. Still, I’ve always longed to work in fashion. But for some reason, I thought it was impossible for me until I got the chance to model. It all started there. I discovered my potential, started to dream for more, and put in the hard work it takes to succeed.

Can you take us through your journey to creating your brand?
 
I used to be a model. Image being key in the industry, I’d always make sure I was bringing my A game under any circumstances. I really wanted my style to reflect my personality, but I had little money. So I had to be resourceful. I turned to my mother’s closet—she had the most beautiful fabrics, my grandmother’s sewing machine, and more than anything , affordable tailors and artisans. I literally started making my own clothes—that was back in 2010. It turned out that people liked my designs! Men and women regardless, identified with my style. At the time, I felt that there was a need for effortless singularity, gracefully made locally—not imported.

So fast forward to March 2020, lockdown in France, it clicked. I finally decided to start that project I had in mind for so long. After a trip back to my roots and learning about my ancestral Beninese craftsmanship, MAISON SITOU was born in June 2020.

Founder Samir de Dravo wearing the MAISON SITOU Fisher Set

What’s the essence of MAISON SITOU?

“Sitou” or “Sitù” means “Grace” among the Minȧ people, my mother’s ethnic group. You can understand Grace here as a blessing or a confident state of mind. We fuse tradition and modernity to craft exclusive collections and capsules, placing effortless individuality and authenticity at the centre of our creative process.

MAISON SITOU is an hymn to softness, a good dose of fluidity served through colours and patterns that proclaim both joie de vivre and Made In Africa excellence. We want to break the “ethnic” stereotypes around African brands. We’re 100% made in Benin and our desire is to support access to employment, fair trade and eco-responsibility in Benin. 

As a personal stylist myself for Christian Dior Couture, I personally make sure that we operate according to international quality standards. Our pieces will add some Grace and sophistication to your looks!

What inspirations nourish your creative process?
 
I’m highly inspired by my culture. Being Beninese is my biggest privilege. Benin is an incredible mix of wonderful ethnic groups, traditions, rituals, and values that are endless sources of inspiration to me. Plus, living in France since 2014 has given me the ability and the perspective to bring my culture into today’s global expectations of the fashion and luxury industry.

Any favourite pieces you’re most proud of from your new collections?

Honestly, all of them! I always make sure that every single piece I make gives me goosebumps before I release it. It has to be high quality and make me feel special when I wear it.

While you’re based in Paris, your brand is 100% made in Benin, from the pieces you create to the people you work with. How has your experience within Benin’s creative scene been so far?
 
I’m incredibly amazed by the creative scene in Benin. Creatives are making moves, they are learning more about branding, and using culture as a real weapon. A lot of them are now seeing fashion as an industry, and working  together without expecting anything  from the government.  

Since the MAISON SITOU SS21 collection, I’ve been working with young creatives like Ghislain Kodjo, Willina Sossou, Aïsha Fadonougbo, Mr Dyreck, Loic De Dravo, Leslye Houenou, Alexandra Noimba, Hugues Akpovi, and others. They all understood and appreciated my vision, and followed me with humility and engagement. It was teamwork, a family was born. We've been working together ever since. They’re so talented, and I’m happy to share my platform with them. We are proof that when we come together, we create magic. Since MAISON SITOU’s inception, a lot of young designers have come to me for advice. I’m happy to see that a lot of existing brands are changing too. They elevate the way they communicate with their clients, or how they present their pieces.

Model Hugues Akpovi wearing the MAISON SITOU Allada Shirt, shot by Aïsha Fadonougbo

Operating your brand in Benin while living and working in France seems full on. How do you juggle both careers?

That’s my biggest challenge, to be honest. And I’m still struggling. It gets really draining emotionally sometimes. But motivation and discipline are my watchwords. The key is to build a great team in Benin who fully understands my vision, and train them to follow the brand vision with discipline. Also, I put all of my days off, holidays and breaks back into MAISON SITOU. I believe my work in Paris is serving my brand; I learn so much every day, and I transfer it into my brand. If I am capable of providing a 100% luxury service at work in Paris, then MAISON SITOU customers deserve the same.

As a brand the younger generation is already looking up to, how do you see yourself playing your part within that creative community?
 
Being part of the diaspora, I feel that it’s my responsibility to build more bridges and improve the ones others have built for me. I want to use this chance to have a multicultural background—African and European, to help young creatives to invest in ideas and projects that will have a long term positive effect on our community.

Our strengths are culture and traditions, and our weaknesses are the lack of knowledge,  the fear to dream, and for some, growing in a non-motivating environment that makes them think they can’t achieve big things. 

So my contribution is first and foremost to be me, to be as real as possible, then to highlight my  craftsmen’s work, and share my platform with those who really want to work hard and make it. I truly believe in community.

Artist @toyinwhatagain wearing the MAISON SITOU Ayele Dress

Lastly: what’s your mantra?
 
Success is a matter of Style. Style like personality and image. To those who are reading  this, before you start any business, make sure you know who you are and who your clients are. Then stand out from the crowd, without fear of asserting your opinion, your strong and unique stylistic point of view.

Yours Gracefully.